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Picking a Faucet | Laquered vs. Unlaquered brass

October 14, 2017

While many of our mothers may cringe, a few of you may have noticed that brass is having a moment right now. Though NOW it’s thankfully showing up in a variety of different brushed and matte versions that are a fresh departure from the typical polished “gold” look that defined the finish 25 years ago. I was first exposed to the finish when helping folks match door sets and cabinet hardware from 75+ years ago. I love brass primarily for it’s old fashioned elegance, and the warmth of the hue. And I especially love the unlacquered brass that patinas over time adding a weathered, classic appearance to kitchens and bathrooms.

But what is the difference between polished and unlaquered brass?

Unlacquered brass lacks the top layer that keeps the brass finish of the 1980’s looking bright forever.  Instead, unlacquered brass weathers over time and takes on a beautiful and warm patina.  This is not a finish for the perfectionist, but better suited to someone who likes a bit of age and the unique appearance of weather metals. The same kind of person that has marble countertops and shrugs at the inevitable etching that comes from wine and lemon juice.

I was convinced that this was the finish I wanted to go with for our kitchen. When we were designing the architectural interiors for our Farmhouse I kept insisting on “living finishes.” After some convincing Nick came around to my vision of brass faucets and door hardware that would weather naturally over time — with more tarnish in the areas that were touched the most and bits of shininess left around the edges. This was all well and good until I started looking for an affordable brass faucet.  I collected inspiration from everywhere I went, read up on how to take care of brass and found the perfect cabinet hardware (at Rejuvenation no less!) but for the life of me I couldn’t find a reasonably priced brass faucet in a “living finish.”

Designer: Studio McGee | Photographed by House Beautiful

And here is why….

Unlacquered faucets are made of pure brass – and can always be polished to its original beauty.

Often faucets that appear to be brass are actually brass-plated, and are typically made of steel or white metal (zinc) to which molecules of brass are electroplated. A lacquer is applied to protect this plating, which is thin and will eventually deteriorate over time. Brass plated pieces can be polished successfully once the lacquer is removed but if the brass-plating itself has deteriorated the entire pieced often needs to be re-plated. An Unlacquered brass faucet is far more expensive to make because the brass needs to be clean and pure the entire way through which is hard to replicate without some serious attention to detail, hence the $$$.


Change is afoot | Nursery Inspiration

April 18, 2017

As the spring weather attempts to break through our current northwest reality of rain and more rain, it is GO TIME here in the Maddox house. As we prepare our home for a little Maddox in the end of June, Nick and I have been pushing to finish up our home projects, most notably the bathroom and the kitchen. This hasn’t left much us much time to “nest” in the way of doing baby things, which is all well and good because I’ve been too tired most evenings to move off the couch! Hence, my Nursery Board on Pinterest has seen lots of action but baby girls room is still rocking a very guest-room vibe.

And yes! We are having a girl, and we couldn’t be more excited.

Lucky for us we knocked out the spare (soon to be baby’s) room first. So all we have to do is move in the crib, a rocking chair and changing table. You can see the finished room below and read about the reno here. Below I’ve compiled some of my inspiration for baby girls nursery. I’m planning on keeping things simple and bright and not changing the color we’ve already painted the wall.

Current Guest Room


Emerson Grey Designs

I love all the happy colors in this nursery! It’s bright but not over-stimulating.


I plan on layering rugs and using lots of baskets in baby girls room. There isn’t a closet currently, so using baskets is a great option that doesn’t hamper the walls with excessive shelves.

Emily Henderson Design

Pretty much every Emily Henderson touches turns to gold. She’s a master of mixing traditional with modern and this nursery is no exception. Isn’t this mural amazing? It’s won’t break the bank and it’s found here! Another great place to find mural’s is Anewall.

Interior Crowd

Below you’ll find some sweet items I’ve found over the last couple months. I have yet to land on a theme for our little ones room, and to be truthful I probably won’t. I’m too indecisive and my fear of being stuck in a design box prevents me from ever identifying too strongly with one specific avenue. I’m excited to have this room be bright, soothing and most of all accessible. Making sure that her room is one she can explore freely is the most important thing to Nick and I.

Simple Shapes Growth Chart | Table Lamp | Striped Laundry Hamper | Tasseled Pillow | Basket with Handles | Pouf | DIY Kids Book Bin | Bunny Tie Back | Wall Planters | Rhino Bust | Floral Sheet | Mammoth Pull-Toy

Bathroom Progress | How to renovate your only bathroom

April 15, 2017

Hi there! Our bathroom is finally finished and I’m here to share some of the progress. This was our second time renovating the sole bathroom in a house and we’ve figured out a few things since then. The first is to have a plan, a REALISTIC plan <– this is key, because if you over shoot what you are reasonably capable of then you’re really stuck. We planned our bathroom remodel to take place during Christmas break, primarily because we both had time off and I was feeling heaps better after making it through the first trimester. Then we broke it into phases which I will detail below.

All in all, there were 7 phases, and while we did this one slightly differently than our first -you can read about that one here, and here, most of how we structured it was the same.

Phase 1 | Demo shower + Re-frame exterior wall + install window

When we moved into the house we immediately noticed that the window in the shower was scary. Not only would it not close, but because the sill was tilted TOWARDS the window, once water was on the sill it would drain into the window and make it’s way down the wall instead of dripping back into the shower. We knew that when we did the bathroom we’d have to tear out this window and possibly reframe most of the wall, which is exactly what ended up happening.

You can see here that most of the sections under the window and the framing was rotten and crumbling.

Below you can see an exterior view of the house and this window specifically.

Pretty gross! There was probably a larger window there at one time and when they replaced it with a smaller one, instead of reframing it and appropriately sheathing the exterior they just threw a piece of wood and plastic on the outside and called it good. Below you’re able to see the new window after Nick re–framed the wall. We went with the Andersen 100-series for our entire house, with a black composite on the outside with white inside to match the trim.

So much better! Check out the view from outside…

Phase 2 | Install tub + Concrete Board + Waterproofing

This was a big phase! But remember, we still have a sink and a toilet to use and we’re only three days in. We had all the materials prepped and waiting in the shop and since this was our second time doing this Nick had a good idea of what he need to grab before we started.

Our Second Use tub waiting in the shop.

And now in the house! Sage seems to like it. Next comes the concrete board… And the new can that nick wired for over the shower. We put it on the same circuit as the fan so you can tell when the fan is on! Pretty nifty I think.

Next came three coats of waterproofing, it’s pretty delightful color – it was fun to paint a room pink and know that you wouldn’t actually have to live with it very long.

Phase 3 | Tile & Grout Shower

If anyone is reading this and you’ve tiled a shower you know it’s not small potatoes. Especially when you choose 2×4 subway tiles…. I know, I could have made it easier on myself but I couldn’t help it. I love some clean white subway tile.

We did the back wall first and then moved onto the side walls. We used a level on almost every tile which is labor intensive but if you start going crooked it can really mess you up when you’re planning on tiling all around the room.

Nick picking off the second wall.

Working on the niches….

The tile we used was a 3×5 textured subway tile, it looks handmade which makes it a bit more rustic than your average tile.

Beginning to grout… The trick is to not get ahead of yourself. If you put more on than you can clean you can be in some serious trouble – take it from someone who has made this mistake. Initially I was bummed because the white grout makes our tile look more gray. Because of this I would recommend going with an antique white if you want your white tile to really pop. The bright white was too bright for our tile to compete. After tiling we sealed the grout with three coats of seal, it’s tedious and it smells but it ensures that our grout will stay bright white. They recommend re-sealing your grout every couple years to maintain the waterproof membrane it provides. 

 And just like that the shower is finished! Below is a picture where Nick filled the tub to make sure the plumbing was all good.

After caulking the joints and corners the shower was back in service. After only 6 days! Not to shabby for only having evenings and weekends to work on this project.

Phase 5 | Move Toilet + Plumbing + Tile remaining walls

In the process of making the layout of this bathroom more efficient we ended up moving the toilet from the north wall to the south wall. We found that if we hadn’t done this, every time you went to use said toilet you would knock your knees on the vanity. This ended up being quite a bear of a project because if you recall when we re did the guest room we had to re-do all the plumbing in the basement in order to eliminate the huge cast iron vent stack that ran through the wall. So here we are, ripping out brand new plumbing to move it over to the other side. I truly have the most incredible husband, handyman. He hardly batted an eye when I told him we had to move it – that’s trust people!

After the shower was back in service we removed the sink, reworked the plumbing for the vanity, switched the toilet over, ran the electrical for the new vanity light and started tiling the South wall of the room.

Hi Scout!

Nick working on the South wall of the bathroom. We decided to bring the tile up to chair rail height because we have 9 ft. ceilings and we didn’t want the shower when it was completely tiled to visually throw off the rest of the room.

So pretty! Even the door has new trim.

The North wall all finished!

Phase 6 | Installing heated floor mats + Tiling the floor

We decided to install heated floor mats because tile can be so cold on your toes! Additionally there is no heater vent in the bathroom so it can be pretty cold in there in the winter time. We also installed a heated towel warmer to help warm things up. Nick installed the floor when I was gone for the weekend with the help of our dear friend Phil. Who is amazing! The guys were up past midnight working on this bathroom so I could come home and have a finished space, they did some incredible work.

Heated mats going in…

And the beautiful mosaic floor tile! Ahh it’s so pretty, I can’t believe how great it turned out. And those neat little clips? They are self-leveling when you snap them between two pieces of tile. Phil had used them for his bathroom and laundry room and man were they helpful.

All grouted and ready for seal!

Phase 7 | Fixture installation

This next phase took a long time. Since we had a working shower and toilet we felt like we were out of the woods for the most part. We weren’t having to run back and forth from the neighbors to use the shower and the toilet, so we felt like living without a sink in here was the least of our worries. The next item to go in was the medicine cabinet and the vanity light. This was quickly followed by the towel warmer and the vanity.

This thing was no fun to wire, but it’s really lovely to have on cold mornings, I mean… Every morning!

My dad built us this beautiful custom vanity. The final reveal will be next, I promise! Writing this post was a big undertaking and really made me feel how big of a project this was. Stay tuned for all the pretty photos!

Maddox Kitchen | Demolition + Inspiration

April 12, 2017

In the last post I addressed some of the initial changes we made to the kitchen since we’ve moved in. Namely, removing the wall that divided the kitchen from the dining area, removing the oil-furnace chimney that was in the closet, installing a beam to support the weight of that wall, tearing up the old linoleum and refinishing the floors. You can read that post here, and the post about refinishing our floors here.

We’ve since started demo and the bank of cabinets are gone. We now have a wall of plastic between us and the construction which has already made items like letting the dog out and switching over our laundry a challenge. One must now be dressed to let the dog out the front of the house and you have to walk all the way around the house, down the stairs and into the basement to switch over the laundry -as I write this I am procrastinating on doing at least one of these things.

Demolition Progress

First Nick and Ryan took off all the doors because Nick plans on salvaging these cabinets for his shop – fortunetly they came out in pretty decent shape. They started by pulling out each of the uppers and then moved on to the lowers.
 So glad we didn’t replace that window we had to break back in September… Quick story: We realized after leaving for a weekend trip that upon both of us running back into the house to grab items we forgot we left the keys to the house sitting on the table and promptly locked ourselves out. The upside to remodeling your house is that you don’t feel particularly bad about breaking a window you plan on replacing in a few months.
Crazy how just taking off some of the uppers gives an idea of how open the space will be. Keep scrolling for our plans of what this wall will be!
And the wall is clear! The plans for this wall are a long 16′ countertop with a wall of three side-by-side windows and a tiled back wall.

Kitchen Inspiration

Devol Kitchens

I love how airy this feels with the dark lower cabinets and the white wall with windows above. I decided against upper cabinets because as a fairly short person I can never reach anything on the top shelf of my cabinets, I was forever climbing on top of the counter to grab an item from the pantry. It seemed silly to design a kitchen where I’d continue to participate in poor choices like climbing on the counter – plus what would I tell my kids if they started doing the same… Welp, won’t have to worry about that. No uppers for us here.

One of the items we bought immediately after buying the house was the farmhouse sink for the kitchen. Someone had a huge fireclay single-basin one for sale in Ravenna (another one of my craigslist finds!) which was the EXACT model I’d been looking for. So we snagged it! And subsequently it’s been sitting in our garage for the last 1.5 years.

Having a single basin sink was important to me because we wash lots of pots and its pretty frustrating to try and clean a huge stock pot in one side of a small sink. Additionally, we’re soon going to have a little one that we’ll probably bathe in it. That’s a win-win in my book. Did I mention it was a steal? Nick looked online to find the specs for our cabinet maker and the same sink now retails for over 4x what we paid for it.

Devol Kitchens

If you haven’t checked out DEVOL Cabinetry in the UK, do yourself a favor and find them. They make the most beautiful kitchens and have this beautiful hutch style that I love. You have a little ledge to put things, but you also get to have some upper cabinets that resemble built-ins. Our kitchen will have three of these sections – one on either side of the fridge with glass doors to house dishes and items we don’t use often, and then one left of the stove which will serve as our pantry. The pantry one will have pull-out drawers so nothing gets forgotten at the back of the cabinet.

We won’t be doing dark tile – I’m opting to use a version of the textured tile we used in the bathroom. But we will have light countertops, some kind of quartz. Initially we plan on substituting butcher block until we can afford the beautiful stone counter tops my dreams are made of.

Maddox Kitchen | The Beginning

April 8, 2017

Renovating our kitchen in #renovate48th is a project that I’ve eagerly anticipated since we bought this house almost 2-years ago, I know! It hasn’t even been TWO YEARS.

Its easy to forget how much has changed in this house when you’re living through it, going to sleep and waking up with projects in progress everywhere you look. It’s a good exercise in relinquishing those unrealistic dreams of perfection we all struggle with and the expectation of Pinterest worthy photos every weekend. The truth is, I hope that living in this house with it’s smoky, sticky cabinets with doors that won’t shut will make me forever grateful for a kitchen that’s easy on the eyes and functions as well as it looks (both inside and out).


Already this photo of the kitchen is different, you can see we’re about the rough-in the dishwasher on the left side of the counter and we’ve already painted over the split pea green walls. We left the trim because painting wood windows is really labor intensive and we thought our efforts would be better spent elsewhere.

In this photo you can see the first layer of  old linoleum that was ripped up so we could refinish the original fir floors we found underneath. In this photo you can also see what was a tiny utility closet and then a narrow door to access the dining room and the rest of the  house. We removed this entire wall, closet and the chimney stack inside that once fed the oil furnace in the basement. And check out those walls! Yuck!

Step 1 | Remove Closet and Chimney

Here you can see a better picture of the wall that separated the kitchen from the dining room. The bump out in the wall is where the chimney currently sits. Taking this out created a much better flow into the kitchen from the rest of the house and has enabled us to host more easily than before.

Another picture of the access to the kitchen. Even the linoleum was cracking apart!

Nick beginning to take down the lath and plaster from the closet.

Removing the chimney – we knocked it in from the roof and then carted it out.

Nick and Jon taking care of business.

During this project our sweet neighbor asked if Nick would be “spending lots of time on the roof, because it makes me nervous.” Lucky for her (and me!) This was a one time occurrence as he patched the spot where the chimney once exited the house. The pitch of this roof is fairly steep, so it’s not the easiest to work on.

Step 2 | Remove Wall Separating Dining and Kitchen

We installed a beam to take the load of the roof since the wall we took out was load-bearing.

You can see the hole in the floor where the chimney once went. Its crazy how just exposing the framing made the entire space brighten up.

All done! Just don’t step in the hole…

Step 3 | Remove Linoleum & Refinish Floors

Peeling that stuff off was harder than it looks. And underneath we ended up having to chip away at more linoleum tiles and pull up hundreds of little staples. This ended up saving us lots of money in the long run. By the time the guys came in to refinish the floors we had removed everything and all they had to do was weave in sections of wood to hide where the walls had once stood and sand and seal.

 The floors after weaving in new wood and three passes on the sander.

And after three coats of stain – we opted for the Swedish finish which is best for the northwest and our humidity. We did three coats because we have a larger dog and fir is a pretty soft wood.

That’s it for now! Stay tuned for updates on our progress as we demo and put in a new kitchen in less than 3 weeks!

Maddox Bathroom | Inspiration

April 5, 2017

Since this is the only bathroom in our house it needed to be beautiful and a workhorse for our growing family. I wanted it to be serene enough in its appeal that I might actually take a bath but also utilitarian in terms of easy cleaning and ample storage.


I love a pretty white bathroom and had my heart set on using beautiful encaustic cement tile found in many parts of the Southwest and Mexico to accent an otherwise white canvas. Unfortunately, these tiles are a pain to source and cost a fortune. I blame Pinterest for making me fall in love with these! Not only are they expensive but the durability of ceramic tile trumps encaustic far and wide, and with this being the only bathroom I couldn’t live with the possibility of the cement chipping with wear and tear. This decision was made easier when I found some 8″ hexagon tiles in a mosaic that resembled the look I had hoped to achieve with the cement ones.

River City Tile Company

Casa Haus

We plan to tile the entire shower and bring the tile up to chair-rail height around the rest of the room. Because it’s a small space the idea is to bring your eye up to accent the tall ceilings. I’m planning on using a textured subway tile to keep the room feeling casual and warm.

Architectural Digest


We plan on installing a new, slightly larger recessed medicine cabinet (the larger mirror will cause the space to feel larger). Also we will replace the wall-mount sink with a larger white vanity complete with an under-mount sink, marble countertop and drawers for storage. One of the bigger changes is switching the toilet from the South wall where it currently sits to the opposite side. This is the only way to fit in a larger vanity with storage and still be able to use the toilet.


Below you’ll find a compilation of what we plan to use and where to find them (sources are linked).

Tile | Faucet | Vanity (custom) | Towel Warmer | Double Sconce | Drawer Pulls | Counter-top (custom) | Medicine Cabinet

Maddox Bathroom | Progress Update

March 29, 2017

I’m excited to be talking about some plans in our bathroom, finally! If you remember from when we bought this house, the bathroom was a scary black hole. There was a gargoyle statue when we toured it, and the light fell off the wall when my sweet MIL attempted to clean it. Additionally, when we took possession of the house there was no hot water, basically a no-go if one plans to shower! We ended up having to flush the heck out of our water heater which had so much gravel and sediment in the bottom its amazing it still worked! Then Nick re-plumbed all of the hot water lines with PEX. The only casualty was the sink that cracked and fell off the wall when replacing our plumbing. The good news is, we got a temporary light working again, the bad news is it might have been better in the dark!

Plans for the Space

The plan of attack it to brighten it up in there. I want this bathroom to be bright and airy while feeling spacious since it’s currently the only bathroom in the house, so I am going with a soft palette, natural materials, not too much contrast, and majorly upgraded fixtures.

Mother Mag

My Domaine

And now for the…


The first item on the agenda was to remove the two layers of laminate flooring. For the flooring we have decided to use octagon tiles in an assorted pattern. I love the encaustic cement tile but the wear and tear on this bathroom calls for something durable like ceramic. The second task is to bring in some light. Currently there is one light over the vanity that we actually had to replace the day we moved in because while changing the lightbulbs the fixture fell off the wall. Let me tell ya, this house is REAL SAFE. I am planning to replace the vanity light and install recessed lighting over the shower and we are adding a new larger window in the shower that will bring in more natural light.

Wish us luck!


October 11, 2016

When we bought our house over a year ago it was inevitable that we’d be building a fence. Our lovable mutt, Sage is an active guy and needs to run frequently. Since we’ve been renovating the exterior of the house he’s either been on a long-line or inside the house -neither are great options for a pup that loves to both be with people and run round. This being said, our last project of the summer was to build a fence.


Lucky for us, West Seattle is home to some really resourceful and creative people and we found much of our inspiration right in our own neighborhood. Nick and I run after work together frequently -nothing like a spunky dog to get you out of the house – and it was a great way to do research for this fence. We noticed how hog-wire panels: used for fences, gates and trellises were popping up all over. What had been a mainstay in ranches for decades was seemingly rediscovered by homeowners and landscape designers and making a comeback all over Seattle. They are a reasonably affordable and low-profile solution for maintaining an open view while keeping animals in (or out). We weighed the pros and cons of having a hog-wire fence and settled on doing a few sections with hog-wire and a few sections with the traditional cedar paneling for more privacy along the back and side-yard.

What is hog wire? Also known as cattle or livestock panels, hog wire panels are made of steep rods welded at every intersections and galvanized with a heavy zinc coating. Feed supply stores and fence companies sell different styles with different rod-gauges and spacing – we plan on using a heavy gauge so that our fence won’t sag over time.



A close-up of a hog-wire fence.


This photo illustrates how planting around your hog-wire fences can disguise the presence of a fence.


I love how classic this one looks with the hydrangea and the white clapboard siding.

Preliminary Planning + Things to know

Don’t over-span your sections

Before deciding where to put our posts we had to decide where we wanted our gates (we’ll be building 4 total) and then our span sections would be predicated on where these gates are going. We plan to build the fence in sections after sinking out posts. Since sections are typically built in 6-8-foot lengths you know right away that your posts shouldn’t be any more than 8 feet apart. We decided on smaller sections because hog-wire is heavy and we didn’t want the weight of it over time making it susceptible to wind damage.

Sink Posts Straight and Below the Frost

Fence posts need to be a minimum of 2-feet or 24″ in the ground – a good rule of thumb is about 1/3 of the post. Because our fence is only going to be about 4-feet high we plan to buy 6-ft posts and sink them about 18″. Make sure to check where your gass, water and electrical lines run before you dig. We plan to sink a post right next to all of these so thankfully we’ve already mapped where the lines intersect so we know exactly where to dig.

*Currently figuring out plans for where the fence will go, how many gates we plan on having (the answer is 4!) and what style of fence we’re building where. In the front we plan to use the hog-wire, and in the back we’ll use a more traditional and private craftsman fence. Nick is currently tasked with figuring out how we can build a section of the fence to be removable in the back.

CURTAINS | Tips + Tricks

October 3, 2016

Besides lending privacy and warmth to a room, curtains have a way of helping a space feel pulled together and complete. They help control light, affirm your style by adding texture and color. Below I’ve outlined some tips for how to hang curtains and some do’s and don’ts for maximizing their benefits to help your room be all it can be.

Tip #1 | Do Hang your Curtains High


Source: Skonahem

The higher the rod, the taller the window will appear, so fix your curtain rod closer to the ceiling than the top of your window. The rule of thumb is that they should sit 4-6 inches above the window frame. Below the folks at HomeBunch maximize the length of their window by using drapes that are a similar color as the walls and picked a contrasting curtain rod in oil-rubbed bronze. The contrast causes your eye to travel up the length of the curtain and gives to illusion of a taller window.


Source: HomeBunch

Tip #2 | Don’t Go Too Short

Fabric should fall to the floor. Please don’t make the mistake of having your curtains be too short this is the equivalent of high-water pants not a good look. A little puddling of fabric can be nice if you want a romantic feel, if you worry about them dragging and getting dirty, then stop the fabric just before they hit the floor — a little under an inch is good. See below for my high-water guestroom curtains –eek! They were in our last house but not that we’ve moved and have higher ceilings they are too short. Oops! I’m currently to practical to buy new ones, especially since you can’t tell from just looking into the room.

Tip #3 | Do Choose Appropriate Fabric

Choose fabric that suits both the mood of the room, and its function. In our Master Bedroom I wanted a more easy and casual look that would filter light so we used light-weight chiffon because we currently have pull-down shades for privacy. In our main living areas we used a thermal-backed linen curtains from here. Having a denser fabric which feels more formal and provides privacy. Fabrics like velvet or adding a thermal suede lining adds body to curtains and can help with drafty windows.


Source: Homes to Love


Source: Anthropologie

Tip #4 | Don’t Go Too Narrow

Select a rod that is wider than the width your window. This will allow enough room for the panels to hang on either side of your window, and also tricks your eye into thinking the window is much larger than it actually is. The rule of thumb is go 8″-12″ wider than your window.


Source: VISI

Tip #5 | Do Use Enough Fabric

You want your curtains to feel full, and if you plan to close your curtains either occasionally or everyday, the curtains should be roughly between two and 2.5 times the width of the actual window.


Photo: Jeroen van der Spek | Styling: Cleo Scheulderman


October 3, 2016

Since we’ve painted the house I’ve been really excited to purchase some kind of warehouse and/or barn light to update the back stoop. Our home has a farmhouse feel to it with the white paint and our shop has some seriously cool warehouse lights from the 60’s I’d  love to still use. Frankly I have no idea how old they are but they’ve got these little bug catchers under the lights which are pretty full (GROSS!) so they’ve clearly been there a while -but I digress. We need a light for this back porch so I went on the hunt for some warehouse lights that were both reasonably-priced and functional for an outdoor setting. But first, a look at the situation at hand and a few things to know before purchasing outdoor lighting.

Our Situation

outdoor-light-_1 lighting-shop_1 lighting-shop_2



Things to know about outdoor lighting…

Most of the ceiling lights, wall lights, outdoor lighting and ceiling fans sold in the United States have been tested and rated by Underwriters Laboratories (UL), an independent product safety certification organization. Conversely, some products have been tested by Intertek and carry an ETL Listed mark. Whether its UL or ETL depends on the product and either rating can help you choose the most appropriate fixture for your needs. Not every light can go outside, be sure that it has a UL Wet Rating unless you plan on putting your light under a covered porch or area where moisture is present but it gets no direct rain -in this case you can use a light that is UL Damp-Rated. I’ve broken down the differences below.

UL Dry Rating: A fixture with a UL Dry Rating may be used in any area, usually indoors, which is not directly exposed to excessive moisture and water.  Any fixture with a UL label that is not explicitly rated for wet or damp applications should be considered a UL dry location fixture.

UL Damp Rating:  A fixture with a UL Damp Rating may be used in sheltered outdoor areas that are protected from direct contact with rain, snow, or excessive moisture (such as ocean spray).

UL Wet Rating:  A fixture with a UL Wet Rating is suitable for outdoor locations that receive direct contact with rain, snow or excessive moisture (such as fog or ocean spray).



What are your favorites? I’m leaning towards the Carson Goose-neck with the 20″ shallow dome, but I would put a smaller light bulb in it. Or should we go red? I plan on refinishing the lights that are over the garage and possibly repurposing the one that is over the garage-doors so that I can have two lights there -one over each garage door which will match the one we decide to place over the back stoop. Part of the problem is that the big green monster that is our shop isn’t white yet and probably won’t be until next summer at the earliest… And green siding + red shade = Christmas.  I welcome your thoughts and opinions. Do any of you have warehouse lights in or around your home? Better yet, have any of you refurbished lighting?

Links to product: 17″ Gooseneck Sconce | Carson 12″ Wall Sconce | Lora Outdoor Barn Light | Urban Barn Galvanized Light | Multi mount Warehouse Light | 13″ NP Barn light | 14″ Porcelain Warehouse light | CANARM Outdoor Aluminum Barn Light

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