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Entries from October 2016


October 11, 2016

When we bought our house over a year ago it was inevitable that we’d be building a fence. Our lovable mutt, Sage is an active guy and needs to run frequently. Since we’ve been renovating the exterior of the house he’s either been on a long-line or inside the house -neither are great options for a pup that loves to both be with people and run round. This being said, our last project of the summer was to build a fence.


Lucky for us, West Seattle is home to some really resourceful and creative people and we found much of our inspiration right in our own neighborhood. Nick and I run after work together frequently -nothing like a spunky dog to get you out of the house – and it was a great way to do research for this fence. We noticed how hog-wire panels: used for fences, gates and trellises were popping up all over. What had been a mainstay in ranches for decades was seemingly rediscovered by homeowners and landscape designers and making a comeback all over Seattle. They are a reasonably affordable and low-profile solution for maintaining an open view while keeping animals in (or out). We weighed the pros and cons of having a hog-wire fence and settled on doing a few sections with hog-wire and a few sections with the traditional cedar paneling for more privacy along the back and side-yard.

What is hog wire? Also known as cattle or livestock panels, hog wire panels are made of steep rods welded at every intersections and galvanized with a heavy zinc coating. Feed supply stores and fence companies sell different styles with different rod-gauges and spacing – we plan on using a heavy gauge so that our fence won’t sag over time.



A close-up of a hog-wire fence.


This photo illustrates how planting around your hog-wire fences can disguise the presence of a fence.


I love how classic this one looks with the hydrangea and the white clapboard siding.

Preliminary Planning + Things to know

Don’t over-span your sections

Before deciding where to put our posts we had to decide where we wanted our gates (we’ll be building 4 total) and then our span sections would be predicated on where these gates are going. We plan to build the fence in sections after sinking out posts. Since sections are typically built in 6-8-foot lengths you know right away that your posts shouldn’t be any more than 8 feet apart. We decided on smaller sections because hog-wire is heavy and we didn’t want the weight of it over time making it susceptible to wind damage.

Sink Posts Straight and Below the Frost

Fence posts need to be a minimum of 2-feet or 24″ in the ground – a good rule of thumb is about 1/3 of the post. Because our fence is only going to be about 4-feet high we plan to buy 6-ft posts and sink them about 18″. Make sure to check where your gass, water and electrical lines run before you dig. We plan to sink a post right next to all of these so thankfully we’ve already mapped where the lines intersect so we know exactly where to dig.

*Currently figuring out plans for where the fence will go, how many gates we plan on having (the answer is 4!) and what style of fence we’re building where. In the front we plan to use the hog-wire, and in the back we’ll use a more traditional and private craftsman fence. Nick is currently tasked with figuring out how we can build a section of the fence to be removable in the back.

CURTAINS | Tips + Tricks

October 3, 2016

Besides lending privacy and warmth to a room, curtains have a way of helping a space feel pulled together and complete. They help control light, affirm your style by adding texture and color. Below I’ve outlined some tips for how to hang curtains and some do’s and don’ts for maximizing their benefits to help your room be all it can be.

Tip #1 | Do Hang your Curtains High


Source: Skonahem

The higher the rod, the taller the window will appear, so fix your curtain rod closer to the ceiling than the top of your window. The rule of thumb is that they should sit 4-6 inches above the window frame. Below the folks at HomeBunch maximize the length of their window by using drapes that are a similar color as the walls and picked a contrasting curtain rod in oil-rubbed bronze. The contrast causes your eye to travel up the length of the curtain and gives to illusion of a taller window.


Source: HomeBunch

Tip #2 | Don’t Go Too Short

Fabric should fall to the floor. Please don’t make the mistake of having your curtains be too short this is the equivalent of high-water pants not a good look. A little puddling of fabric can be nice if you want a romantic feel, if you worry about them dragging and getting dirty, then stop the fabric just before they hit the floor — a little under an inch is good. See below for my high-water guestroom curtains –eek! They were in our last house but not that we’ve moved and have higher ceilings they are too short. Oops! I’m currently to practical to buy new ones, especially since you can’t tell from just looking into the room.

Tip #3 | Do Choose Appropriate Fabric

Choose fabric that suits both the mood of the room, and its function. In our Master Bedroom I wanted a more easy and casual look that would filter light so we used light-weight chiffon because we currently have pull-down shades for privacy. In our main living areas we used a thermal-backed linen curtains from here. Having a denser fabric which feels more formal and provides privacy. Fabrics like velvet or adding a thermal suede lining adds body to curtains and can help with drafty windows.


Source: Homes to Love


Source: Anthropologie

Tip #4 | Don’t Go Too Narrow

Select a rod that is wider than the width your window. This will allow enough room for the panels to hang on either side of your window, and also tricks your eye into thinking the window is much larger than it actually is. The rule of thumb is go 8″-12″ wider than your window.


Source: VISI

Tip #5 | Do Use Enough Fabric

You want your curtains to feel full, and if you plan to close your curtains either occasionally or everyday, the curtains should be roughly between two and 2.5 times the width of the actual window.


Photo: Jeroen van der Spek | Styling: Cleo Scheulderman


October 3, 2016

Since we’ve painted the house I’ve been really excited to purchase some kind of warehouse and/or barn light to update the back stoop. Our home has a farmhouse feel to it with the white paint and our shop has some seriously cool warehouse lights from the 60’s I’d  love to still use. Frankly I have no idea how old they are but they’ve got these little bug catchers under the lights which are pretty full (GROSS!) so they’ve clearly been there a while -but I digress. We need a light for this back porch so I went on the hunt for some warehouse lights that were both reasonably-priced and functional for an outdoor setting. But first, a look at the situation at hand and a few things to know before purchasing outdoor lighting.

Our Situation

outdoor-light-_1 lighting-shop_1 lighting-shop_2



Things to know about outdoor lighting…

Most of the ceiling lights, wall lights, outdoor lighting and ceiling fans sold in the United States have been tested and rated by Underwriters Laboratories (UL), an independent product safety certification organization. Conversely, some products have been tested by Intertek and carry an ETL Listed mark. Whether its UL or ETL depends on the product and either rating can help you choose the most appropriate fixture for your needs. Not every light can go outside, be sure that it has a UL Wet Rating unless you plan on putting your light under a covered porch or area where moisture is present but it gets no direct rain -in this case you can use a light that is UL Damp-Rated. I’ve broken down the differences below.

UL Dry Rating: A fixture with a UL Dry Rating may be used in any area, usually indoors, which is not directly exposed to excessive moisture and water.  Any fixture with a UL label that is not explicitly rated for wet or damp applications should be considered a UL dry location fixture.

UL Damp Rating:  A fixture with a UL Damp Rating may be used in sheltered outdoor areas that are protected from direct contact with rain, snow, or excessive moisture (such as ocean spray).

UL Wet Rating:  A fixture with a UL Wet Rating is suitable for outdoor locations that receive direct contact with rain, snow or excessive moisture (such as fog or ocean spray).



What are your favorites? I’m leaning towards the Carson Goose-neck with the 20″ shallow dome, but I would put a smaller light bulb in it. Or should we go red? I plan on refinishing the lights that are over the garage and possibly repurposing the one that is over the garage-doors so that I can have two lights there -one over each garage door which will match the one we decide to place over the back stoop. Part of the problem is that the big green monster that is our shop isn’t white yet and probably won’t be until next summer at the earliest… And green siding + red shade = Christmas.  I welcome your thoughts and opinions. Do any of you have warehouse lights in or around your home? Better yet, have any of you refurbished lighting?

Links to product: 17″ Gooseneck Sconce | Carson 12″ Wall Sconce | Lora Outdoor Barn Light | Urban Barn Galvanized Light | Multi mount Warehouse Light | 13″ NP Barn light | 14″ Porcelain Warehouse light | CANARM Outdoor Aluminum Barn Light

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